37. Vine Tidy

"Vine Tidy" is in a class by itself among the patterns of the sample book. Not only is it one of a mere handful of stockingnet designs, but it is the sole example of an all-over lace pattern. Rather than an edging or insertion intended as a component in a larger work, it produces a fabric that can be adapted for a wide variety of knitting projects where lace is desired. The ropy vine motifs alternate with trios of zigzagging lines to form a trellis effect. The pattern has a 12-row repeat and is worked on a multiple of 19 stitches for circular knitting, 19 + 12 for flat fabric.

You can download the full-size chart, verbal instructions and notes here.

Variations of the pattern can be found in many modern day texts. Knitting Counterpanes: Traditional Coverlet Patterns for Contemporary Knitters by Mary Walker Phillips, for example, includes "Braided Leaf Insert." While designed as a panel, the pattern is essentially the same as Vine Tidy (more about that "tidy" in a moment), the only difference being that the two vines at the center of the insertion, while flanked by trellises on the right and left, are separated from one another by a single eyelet.

(photo ©1989 The Taunton Press)

Note the scalloped cast-on edge. Worked without a border, the Vine Tidy pattern also has this feature.

I have charted the pattern as it would appear in a knitting stitch dictionary, but the instructions in the sample book were written to create a specific household article, the tidy. In some Victorian sources, the tidy is a receptacle of some kind-- a box to set in the bathroom and hold toiletries, a bag to hang from a doorknob and organize mail. Here, however, the tidy is a square or rectangular doily (antimacassar, dresser scarf, placemat, etc.) knit back and forth rather than from the center.

Worked across 89 stitches and featuring three repeats of the vine pattern, the tidy includes a stockingnet border, a curious selection given the tendency for the ends to curl up and the selvedges to curl under, as evidenced in the photo. A border of garter or seed stitch would have been a better choice. My sample was knit in fingering weight cotton on 2.25mm needles. With 16 pattern repeats, the finished piece blocked to 11¼" X 17½".

In the sample book Vine Tidy was hand-written by our anonymous knitter with no attribution, but I couldn't help but notice that it is identical in every respect (same width, same border, same three vines, everything) to a pattern found in my favorite book in my knitted lace library, Fancy Work Recreations: A Complete Guide to Knitting, Crochet, and Home Adornment published in 1884 (there's that date again!) by Buckeye Publishing Co., Minneapolis, and written by Eva Marie Niles, shown below in the frontispiece.

Ms. Niles must have been a lace knitter first and foremost. Although the text covers a wide variety of needlework including crochet, patchwork, embroidery, drawn thread, macramé, darned lace and netting, not to mention crafts such as skeletonizing leaves, splatter pictures, leather work, brass repoussé and others, fully a third of the 433-page work is devoted to knitted designs, mostly lace. An explanatory note at the back of the book cites the Housekeeper, Peterson's Magazine and the New York Tribune as sources for some of the instructions, but adds that "a greater part of the knitting and crochet is original with the author."

In this period the technology of reproducing photographs in books and newspapers was advancing, although online sources disagree on the exact date the first of such illustrations appeared. Photographic images in publications may have made their debut a few years before or shortly after Fancy Work Recreations, but whatever the fact of the matter, the process surely must have remained prohibitively expensive for some years, and drawings and etchings continued to be the most common illustrations in needlework books and magazines. The image accompanying Ms. Niles' "Vine Tidy" pattern shows a detail of the design. The swatch is presented with the cast-on edge at the top, in contrast to current practice where stitch pattern photos reflect the conventions of charting, with row 1 at the bottom.

Although the drawings are usually notable for their accurate rendering of the smallest detail, note the inexplicable eyelet in each leaf lobe-- there is no yarn over in the pattern at that point.

Up next: Untitled Edging

36. Wheat-Ear Lace

"Wheat-Ear Lace" is a relatively narrow garter stitch edging, blocking to 7/8" when knit in fingering weight yarn on 2.25mm needles. It features pairs of eyelets tipped diagonally to create the motif. The lower edge is scalloped and rimmed with eyelets formed by beginning each wrong side row with a yarn over. The stitch count rises from five to eight over the first five rows, and the added stitches are worked off with the diabolical P5tog in the final row of the 8-row repeat.

You can download the full-size chart, verbal instructions and notes here.

Next time: Vine Tidy

35. Normandy Lace

"Normandy Lace" is from a newspaper clipping accompanied by this note:

Sisters of the Home: Here are directions for knitting Normandy lace. I know you will like it. Be sure to knit it loosely. It comes in points and wheels. The points are solid, but the wheels are open. - Julie Beers.

The garter stitch edging is a "true" knitted lace with every row a pattern row. The stitch count rises steadily in the first half of the pattern, but the added stitches are worked off in a less orderly fashion in the second half of the 12-row repeat.

You can download the full-size chart, verbal instructions and notes here.

Next time: Wheat-Ear Lace

34. French Lace

"French Lace" is a garter stitch edging featuring a spot design of eyelet clusters formed by short segments of faggoting. A single large eyelet adorns each "sawtooth" of the lower edge. The stitch count jumps by four in the second row and thereafter remains constant until the added stitches are bound off in the last row of the 8-row repeat.

You can download the full-size chart, verbal instructions and notes here.

Next week: Normandy Lace

33. Second Pattern

Simple and sweet, "Second Pattern" (from a newspaper clipping, the name implies there having been another design published at the same time) is a narrow saw-tooth trim with diagonal rows of eyelets. The stitch count rises steadily from four to seven before the added stitches are bound off in the final row of the 6-row repeat.

You can download the full-size chart, verbal instructions and notes here.

Next week: French Lace

32. Knitted Lace Insertion

D.P.A. of Cassopolis MI submitted "Knitted Lace Insertion" to the newspaper to match a previously published edging. A trio of eyelets zigzags across the panel and back again. The yarn over/decrease pairs shift one stitch over each right side row. Here the change in direction is achieved solely by the position of the yarn over relative to its corresponding decrease, i.e., before or after the decrease, while a modern designer would most likely employ a different decrease as well. The garter stitch panel of 15 stitches has a 26-row repeat.

You can download the full-size chart, verbal instructions and notes here.

Next up: Second Pattern

31. Aunt Mary's Lace

"Aunt Mary's Lace" features a plain garter stitch upper edge, a lozenge-shaped motif and eyelets outlining the scalloped lower edge. The stitch count varies a great deal from row to row due to the placement of the yarn overs in relation to their corresponding decreases.

You can download the full-size chart, verbal instructions and notes here.

This is another pattern from a newspaper clipping, the design sent in by subscriber Mrs. J. L. I. She wrote:

My sister and I have knitted many pretty designs given and would now like to make some return to the fair knitters. I send herewith a specimen and directions for edge unlike anything I have yet seen. It is my sister's design and we call it 'Aunt Mary's Lace.'

Next up: Knitted Lace Insertion

30. Knife Pleated Edging

After an August hiatus (while I settled into a new job and tended to other matters), our parade of Victorian designs returns with the only non-lace pattern in the sample book. "Knife Pleated Edging" features a knit-and-purl texture and uses short rows to create the pleats.

Like 5. Knitted Trimming the sample had a tendency to curve as it was knit. Since the pleats had more rows than the upper edge, the lower area wanted to fan out before blocking.

However, unlike the earlier pattern, where blocking straight would have obscured the lace pattern, bringing the upper edge of this design in line enhanced the pleated effect. I blocked the same sample two ways. First, without stretching the fabric in either direction, I pinned the upper edge in a straight line and pinned the pleats in place directly below. This maximized the depth of the folds.

Then I reblocked the edging, gently stretching the width and height. This version highlighted the knit/purl surface design.

While most modern short row instructions call for "wrap and turn"--- i.e., at the end of the short row: 1) bring yarn forward, 2) slip the next stitch, 3) yarn back, 4) return slipped stitch to left needle before turning the work--- to prevent a gap in the knitting, the sample book makes no mention of the technique. I knit my swatch of the pattern as written, simply turning the work with three stitches unworked and proceeding to the next row. The resulting holes are fairly small and are noticeable only when the sample was blocked stretched out. In this case, they can serve as a design feature, offsetting the lower pleats from the narrow band along the upper edge.

You can download the full-size chart, verbal instructions and notes here.

Next week: Aunt Mary's Lace

29. Smyrna Lace

"Smyrna Lace" is a classic: diamonds framed by two rows of eyelets. One stitch is added every other row in the first half of the pattern, and then the added stitches are worked off in the same way in the second half, forming a gently scalloped lower edge. Unlike most of the patterns we have seen, only one stitch is worked into each double yarn over on the subsequent row.

You can download the full-size chart, verbal instructions and notes here.

Glancing at the chart one might expect all-pattern knitted lace (aka knitted lace) as discussed in the 12. Tunician Lace post, because both right-side and wrong-side rows employ yarn overs to form the design. However, Smyrna Lace falls into the alternating-pattern knitted lace category (aka lace knitting). A closer examination of the chart reveals that the eyelets above the diamond motifs are worked on wrong-side rows and the eyelets below the diamonds are worked on the right side. In the first half of a given row the yarn overs (lower eyelets or upper eyelets) of the previous row are knitted across plain, and in the second half of the row new yarn overs create the other part of the pattern. Thus instead of separate pattern rows and plain-knit rows, each row serves both functions.

Despite having been knit with the same yarn and needles as all the other samples, this one strikes me as looser, stretchier, perhaps due to the double yarn overs being worked as single stitches.

Next Week: Knife Pleated Edging

28. Lemon Seed Lace

"Lemon Seed Lace" features diamonds flanked by faggoting and ladder eyelets in the upper half and the eponymous motifs lined up diagonally along the lower scalloped edge. The stitch count jumps from 23 to 28 in the first row. Two of the added stitches are worked off halfway through the pattern, before the other three are bound off in the final row of the 12-row repeat.

You can download the full-size chart, verbal instructions and notes here.

Next Week: Smyrna Lace

27. Rose Leaf Lace

Pairs of leaves running horizontally, faggoting, large eyelets, cascading eyelets and a gently scalloped lower edge combine to make "Rose Leaf Lace" one of the most complex compositions in the sample book. This is relatively large edging, with a stitch count of 34 to 39 and measuring 3¾" wide after blocking when knit in fingering weight yarn on 2.25mm needles.

You can download the full-size chart, verbal instructions and notes here.

Rose Leaf Lace would work well with any of the twin leaf patterns such as Barbara Walker's Double Rose Leaf insertion.

Next time: Lemon Seed Lace

26. Narrow Edge

"Narrow Edge" is a fraternal twin of 17. Lace Edging, the only significant difference in appearance being the substitution of ladder eyelets along the upper edge in place of the earlier pattern's herringbone faggoting. The stitch count rises from seven to nine before the extra stitches are bound off in the final row of the 6-row repeat. Although the sample's width is on the low side of average, I wouldn't put it in the same class as the other designs of the same name we have seen previously (3. Narrow Edging and 15. Narrow Edging). Those samples measured 7/8" knit in fingering weight cotton on 2.25mm needles, while this one is 1¼" wide.

You can download the full-size chart, verbal instructions and notes here.

Next week: Rose Leaf Lace

25. Lace Pattern

"Lace Pattern" is a relative of 13. Shell Pattern, in that the solid areas are gathered at the lower left by slipping multiple stitches over one. However, here the bind off does not result in a cupped effect. This may be due to the double yarn overs, giving the slipped stitches room to spread out. The first two rows of the chart are preparatory and are not worked on subsequent repeats of the pattern.

You can download the full-size chart, verbal instructions and notes here.

While knitting the sample, I was appalled by the unsightly bumps created along both the upper and lower edges by beginning every row with p2tog. So I knit another, adding an additional edge stitch on each side and using the selvedge technique from 19. Knitted Lace (Wide).

Aaah. Much better.

Next time: Narrow Edge

24. Untitled Edging

Here's another pattern without a name. The garter stitch edging combines fagotting along the top with large eyelets arranged within the saw-tooth lower edge. The stitch count increases with every eyelet row, from 11 to 19, and the added stitches are bound off in the last row of the 12-row repeat.

You can download the full-size chart, verbal instructions and notes here.

The right side and wrong side of this pattern are indistinguishable from one another, making it suitable for a wide variety of purposes.

Next time: Lace Pattern

23. Untitled Edging

This is one of a few patterns which our Victorian knitter copied down without a heading. A nearly identical trim can be found in Classic Knitted Cotton Edgings by Furze Hewitt and Billie Daley. Unfortunately, the book's patterns are identified only by number, not by name (the similar design is #78), so the mystery remains. There can be no doubt, however, that whatever its original name, the word "leaf" must have figured prominently.

The pattern features triangles of large eyelets alternating with solid squares set on their points, each with a puffed leaf against a garter stitch ground. The design is topped off with a row of fagotting set apart from the rest of the arrangement by a narrow band of reverse stockingnet. While not reaching the epic dimensions of 19. Knitted Lace (Wide), this pattern falls outside the average in size, blocking at 4¼" wide when knit in fingering weight cotton on 2.25mm needles. In the first half of the pattern the stitch count steadily rises from 27 to 48. Some of the added stitches are worked off in the process of tapering the leaf motif, and the remainder are bound off in the last row of the 28-row repeat.

You can download the full-size chart, verbal instructions and notes here.

I find the use of p2tog in place of a left-leaning decrease (SSK, s1-k1-psso, etc.) when tapering the leaf a curious choice. It creates a series of bumps along the right side of the leaf. And the k3tog at the top of the leaf produces a tip that is less defined than would be had with a balanced double decrease (sl2-k1-p2sso). It seems as if the designer knew only one way to decrease-- knit or purl two or more stitches together-- or she considered other decreases unnecessary. Whatever the case, if used for a project, this pattern would definitely benefit from those substitutions in shaping the leaf.

Next week: Untitled Edging No. 2

22. Palm Leaf Insertion

"Palm Leaf Insertion" has faggoting on each side and single large eyelets alternating with diagonal lines of eyelets running down the middle. The effect is suggestive of a tipped diamond with a center hole. The panel is 13 stitches wide and has a 14-row repeat.

You can download the full-size chart, verbal instructions and notes here.

This is another pattern sent into the newspaper by a reader. In this case the contributor designed it to correspond to a previously published edging:

"Etta" kindly sends these directions for making a handsome insertion matching the Palm Leaf Lace on Page 37 in Knitting Extra No. 62.

Next time: Untitled Edging

21. Oak Leaf

"Oak Leaf" has a row of ladder eyelets along the upper edge and pairs of eyelets cascading down into the curved saw-tooth lower edge. The garter stitch edging begins with 10 stitches cast on, increases by 2 stitches every right side row, and the added stitches are bound off in the final row of the 12-row repeat.

You can download the full-size chart, verbal instructions and notes here.

Addendum to 8. Wristlets: A reader has suggested wearing the wristlets with the scalloped edge at the hand, where it would catch the eye. I have added a new photograph to the post to illustrate this excellent idea. (Thanks, Jane!)

Next time: Palm Leaf Insertion

20. Parisian Lace

The wagon wheel motif along the lower edge gives "Parisian Lace" a strikingly different look. The garter stitch design also features a stockingnet horizontal lozenge shape and a row of ladder eyelets along the upper edge. The stitch count rises from 17 to 21 by the end of the fourth row. One of the added stitches is worked off in row 7 and the remainder are bound off in the final row of the 10-row repeat.

You can download the full-size chart, verbal instructions and notes here.

Next time: Oak Leaf

19. Knitted Lace (Wide)

"Knitted Lace (Wide)" is aptly named. It is over twice as wide as its nearest challenger among the edgings we have seen to date. I have knit all of the samples with the same fingering weight cotton on 2.25mm needles. Each of the other edgings has fallen into one of three groups: just under 1", 1¼"-1½" and 2"-2½". By comparison, Knitted Lace (Wide) comes in at a whopping 5¾"!

The design has two rows of faggoting alternating with two rows of single eyelets along the upper edge, and garter stitch triangles separated by multiple diagonal rows of eyelets running down into the saw-tooth lower edge. The stitch count steadily rises from 31 to 47 before the added stitches are bound off in the final row of the 34-row repeat. The bind-off is achieved by knitting two stitches together, replacing the stitch on the left needle and repeating the process until only the original 31 stitches remain.

You can download the full-size chart, verbal instructions and notes here.

I absolutely love the selvage created in this pattern. I have always slipped the first stitch of every row, thinking that the best option for a neat selvage. But here you knit to the last stitch of each row and bring the yarn forward before slipping it. The result resembles a line of knit stitches running up the side of the piece, not unlike a bound-off edge.

So exquisitely even, definitely a technique after this perfectionist's heart! I can see that this method will loom large in my future for any project not knit in the round.

Like Making Knitted Edging and Another Pretty Pattern before, this design was submitted by S.G.H. of Monmouth IL for publication in the newspaper.

Next week: Parisian Lace

18. Double Diamond

"Double Diamond" is a variation of a previous pattern, 6. Torchon Edge. In this version

• there is only one knit stitch instead of two after the yarn over at the end of each right side row
  
• the yarn overs are purled on the next row
  
• and, as the name suggests, the top of the solid diamonds are framed with two rows of eyelets instead of one
  

The garter stitch edging begins with a stitch count of 9, increases one stitch every right side row to 12, and then steadily decreases to the original number in the course of the 12-row repeat.

You can download the full-size chart, verbal instructions and notes here.

Next time: Knitted Lace (Wide)